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Communism and Korzhenevskaya peaks expedition



The Somoni Peak (Ex-Communism) (7495 m) It is the highest peak of the Pamir and the former USSR. It is situated in Tajikistan, on the joint of the ridges of the Academy of Sciences and the Great Peter. 

The first ascent to the summit was made by Yevgeny Abalakov in 1933 as part of the 
Academy of Sciences`s USSR Tajik-Pamir Expedition from the Bivachny Glacier side. On the western slopes of the summit on 6000 m high altitude there is a unique Pamir firn plateau, which cut short to the glaciers of Fortambek and Walter from the north and to the Belyaev glacier from the south with kilometer steep walls. The classical  routes to the summit go through the firn plateau from the Fortambek glacier, along the edge of the Stormy Petrel, and from the Walter glacier, along the Borodkin's edge. 






Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) is one of the seven thousandths of the former USSR, located in the northern part of the Academy of Sciences ridge in13 kilometers from the Communism peak. 

The peak was discovered by the Russian scientist anf geographer  N. Korzhenevsky on August 23, 1910. He gave to this peak his wife name - Evgenia Korzhenevskaya. Since 1927, the name of Korzhenevskaya peak officially appeared on the maps. 
Presently, there are 10 
variants of complexity routes leading to the top. The safest and easiest one starts from the Moskvina Glacier and passes along the Southern Rib (the route of V. Tsetlin, 1966). 
The base camp, located at an altitude of 4200 m at the confluence of the glaciers of Walter and Moskvina. This place is starting point for climbing the peaks of Somoni (Ex-Communism) 7495m. and E. Korzhenevskaya 7105 m.

 

 

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